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New dress uniform inspired by WWII duds

The latest version of the service dress, which will begin appearing in a limited wear-test this summer, is essentially a modern take on the classic World War II-era uniform worn by Henry “Hap” Arnold, the aviation pioneer who became the first leader of the Air Force when it separated from the Army.

360-degree tour

The new service dress coat and the early gear that inspired it

Lt. Gen. Roger A. Brady, deputy chief of staff for manpower and personnel, said leaders decided to go with the Hap Arnold-inspired uniform because it harkens to the Air Force’s war-fighting heritage while being practical for everyday wear.

The original Hap Arnold coat and prototype had wide, rounded lapels and severely scalloped pockets with wide flaps, all of which designers have trimmed back. The lapels have been made more angular, and the pockets have been dropped down to make more room for ribbons.

The new service dress is made of the same blue polyester-wool blend as the current service dress, but designers have added a fourth button, four front pockets and a belt that wraps around the coat to give it a more military appearance than the current business-suit style.

The new coat also has more tailoring than the existing service dress to give it a more form-fitting look.

The men’s and women’s coats are essentially the same, though the bottom two pockets on the men’s uniform and all four on the women’s are fake, giving the look of pockets without the problems of fit.

The necktie and dress shirt remain the same, and women will begin wearing the men’s necktie when they wear the coat. They will still be able to wear the current tab tie when not wearing the coat. Designers will create a new women’s dress shirt with a collar that can accommodate a traditional necktie.

The pants and shoes are the same as those worn currently. The collar brass will also remain the same.

The new coat features a special pleat, called a bi-swing, under and behind the shoulders to allow freer arm movement.

The new coat also requires more tailoring because it is more form-fitting. But that tailoring, Brady said, provides a better fit for individual airmen.

The women’s uniform has darts and other small tailoring touches to better fit women’s figures.

No uniform will make everyone happy, Brady said, and he expects that some airmen will have complaints. He said two elements of the uniform could be particularly controversial: the belt around the coat and women wearing a necktie.

The uniform will be wear-tested both with and without a belt, Brady said.

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